Chef Will Meyrick: A proud supporter of street food

Gourmand Asia: It seems that you have stayed true to your cooking style and values throughout the years. Could you tell us more about that?

Will Meyrick: For me, understanding different cultures is a commitment, that’s why I stay true to it. Especially now, as Mama San is expanding to further locations and I undertake more travels. I meet the men from the farms and the women in their kitchens and learn to cook their food in their kitchens, giving me more chances to learn of their cultures from them. And doing this becomes easier for me to promote Asian food, not only Indonesian. The best part of it is, there is still plenty to learn.

G.A: Chef Palm Amatawet has been your accomplice for years, how do you complement each other?

W.M.: Palm is my ‘chef in crime’. My intensive travels make my schedule pretty tight most of the time. And Palm together with the team take care of the business. With him, I can discuss a lot about Asian food, we especially love to get into talking about Thai food, since he is from Thailand and has a lot of knowledge to share.

G.A: At a time when chefs tend to explore molecular cuisine and techniques, your approach appears to be against the current as you are on a quest to revive authentic recipes. Why is that? 

W.M.: There’s nothing wrong with molecular cuisine and techniques, but look around, the existing cuisine culture in Southeast Asia has so much to offer. Originating from my curiosity now is my passion, and I enjoy meeting the people of the land, the small towns and big cities where I have the opportunities to learn directly from their kitchens. It’s fascinating and I want people to see it too, to share this incredibly varied food culture.

G.A: Do you feel a responsibility – like a country food ambassador – to showcase and raise awareness about Indonesian culture, and in particular its cuisine?

W.M.: Only because I am passionate about it, I am not the expert here. Indonesian cuisine has not been much explored, and the diversity of the food is just amazingly high. It’s a rich country in terms of culture with countless things you can learn across the country, through food. I hope I can make more people see that Indonesian food is not only Rendang and Nasi Goreng.

G.A: Do you have any words of wisdom to encourage Western chefs to become more interested in Southeast Asian food?

W.M.: Enter the kitchen through the door of culture, you will find it fascinating.

G.A: For home cooks who would like to explore the region, its spices, vegetables and fruits… in such a rich environment, how could you help them get started?

W.M.: If you want to ‘try this at home’, get to the traditional market, and regardless of your language ability ask questions – the sellers at markets are often great sources of knowledge.

G.A: You are a defender of warung and street food describing them as part of history.  How would you describe the Singaporean street food scene today? And how can we encourage the young generation to take over and protect this culture in our industrialized world?

W.M.: Singaporean street food, i.e. hawker food is great for me. It is also great that Singapore has been at the forefront in promoting street food with high hygiene. Neighbouring countries can really learn from Singapore.

Actually, in terms of keeping the heritage alive, I see that Singaporeans are doing well, despite the growth of the city. In my humble opinion the Indonesian government needs to do more to protect its heritage, in the same way Singapore does. Regarding the younger generation, it has to start from home, education at home. Cook more at home and introduce real food as a part of culture to your children.

G.A: Any Mama San opening planned for Singapore? If yes, would you replicate the one in Hong Kong or make some adjustments? If so why?

W.M.: Yes we’d love to introduce Singaporeans to Mama San and we would do it in Singapore using a similar concept to Mama San Bali and Hong Kong. The concept of Mama San travels internationally, variations are only dependent on available space.

Céline Manoukian

Photo credit: WGS