Q&A wih Hervé Deschamps, Perrier Jouët’s cellar master

Nothing comes out of nowhere – especially things that need delicate balance such as wine and champagne. Hence, the cellar master is crucial to the success of any batch of premium creation which we might at first take for granted.

We might even go as far as to say that a cellar is like an artist who gives life to a unique creation, relying on his senses and experience.

With Perrier-Jouët being one of the most prestigious champagne houses around, we had the chance to meet up with their cellar master, Hervé Deschamps to tell us more about the DNA and the sustainability of the hallmark.

Gourmand Asia: Could you briefly share with us Perrier-Jouët’s history? What are its values and how does it stand out from other champagne houses?

Hervé Deschamps: Founded in 1811, Perrier-Jouët‘s unique style has been preserved thanks to its vineyards ideal location. Indeed, Perrier-Jouët’s vineyards are in Côte Des Blancs, the largest chardonnay region. This feature became its landmark and oriented its business development strategy towards overseas markets since its inception. Even today, Perrier-Jouët exports 85% of its production.
The first one to appreciate and acknowledge Perrier-Jouët’s champagne was the United Kingdom. The English palate and the champagne house have in common pleasure as a rule.
UK did play a major role in the taste of Perrier-Jouët champagnes. As English were looking for a less liquorish alcohol, Perrier-Jouët worked on the alchemy of the assembly to lower the sweetness level, way before any other champagne houses did. It consequently gave the brand its famous chardonnay terroir signature.
It is those terroirs which give the champagne an elegant yet strong style. This ambivalence is due to the curated grapes harvested in selected villages.
The last and most challenging value is called the diamond-cut. Assembling the different crus is about marrying one with another to create a new champagne that will take you to a new dimension, an ideal.

G.A: Being a cellar master goes beyond knowledge and studies. While it is about precision, it also requires instinct and creativity. How do you reach to such intangible notions?

H.D: As an epicurean myself, studying oenology gave me the chance to combine pleasure with work. Familiar with the wine universe – my grand-father was a winemaker in the region – I actually realised when joining Perrier-Jouët that my vision was limited to three steps: the grapes, harvest and final product. I was lacking the understanding of the creative process, which is the assembly. And to be able to understand, tasting is a keystone.
Three years after joining the brand, I was allowed to participate in all the in-house tastings, memorizing aromas, feelings and sensations. This stage represents a milestone to quickly know and have the right vision about the cuvée. You need to imagine the final product with the greater accuracy.

G.A: Each champagne house, from the smallest to the largest, has its very own style. Could you explain more?

H.D: You need to go back in time to understand the different styles. Champagne started with the monks who were cultivating the vineyards and turned it into a commerce. At that time the only channel was the maritime routes.
Épernay region was using the Seine river to reach London, passing by Paris. Meanwhile, champagne from Reims region was traveling to Holland, Sweden and Russia. Hence the style of a champagne house comes from history and geography. So when the vineyards were bought by the houses, they also bought a terroir. And while Chardonnay brings floral and refreshing notes; Reims and its Pinot noir produce stronger and powerful wines, more masculine in style.

G.A: Would you say that P errier-Jouët chose you? Could you be the cellar master of another champagne house?

H.D: My focus has always been the wine. Vinification, the art of wine making remains the most important. I believe with Perrier-Jouët we share the same set of values which includes precision, elegance, art and a love for details.

G.A: In a world that changes quickly and constantly, champagne and its process appear to be timeless. The master cellar is responsible for the champagne house longevity. How do you achieve this mission every year and for such volumes?

H.D: First, you need to remember that we have our own vineyards which is a stable element to sustain Perrier-Jouët’s unique style. Besides, we have been buying grapes from the same villages, working with the same families and winegrowers for generations.
Regarding the assembling process, the most stressful time is January and February. This period requires time alone to think clearly in order to have an accurate vision of the final champagne. You immerse yourself into your universe. It is crucial. Because even science can not be as accurate as human beings. Aroma is an association of a plethora of elements which is almost impossible to duplicate.

G.A: Perrier-Jouët has released in June a new vintage champagne, Belle Epoque 2007. How do you decide to create a new vintage champagne?

H.D: It is usually every two years, though there is no rule for vintage. It may happen that there won’t be any if the potential is not there. When you think of vintage, you have to envision the aging potential of the tank, as it will remain twice the time than a normal one, i.e. six years. We are looking at wines with a mix of fresh, airy and light notes but with depth and vinous touch at the same time. You visualize a powerful and delicate vintage. That’s where all your senses are awakened to make the ultimate decision.
Perrier-Jouët does not compromise with high-quality standards. As a consequence, if I believe that there won’t be any vintage, the house will respect my decision, even though some competitors will release a vintage. This situation actually happened in 1990 and 1995.

G.A: Needless to be a champagne connoisseur to appreciate Perrier-Jouët champagne. Its taste and uniqueness strike you. How do you explain this feeling?

H.D: There is no magic or secret here. Perrier-Jouët’s history, its vineyards, and the respect of the wine making process are sacred.

G.A: What is your favourite way to indulge in Perrier-Jouët?

H.D: I always enjoy it with friends. It depends on the opportunity or celebration. If I am casually meeting with some friends, I will drink Grand Brut because of its refreshing notes. And Belle Epoque brings deeper sensations, so it is to be shared for special events. It is the conditions that determine which champagne to drink.

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2007 is available at Fullerton Hotel, Fullerton Bay Hotel, Grand Hyatt, ShangriLa, Saint Pierre, Flutes, Gunther’s, Tamashii Robatoya, The Black Swan, and Gattopardo.

Céline Manoukian