Chef Jordi Roca: A rule-breaking pastry maestro

Gourmand Asia: We usually relate pastry to France, but Spain has been actually very dynamic and has widely contributed to its evolution for at least the last two decades. Could you tell us a little about the Spanish influence in the pastry field?

Chef Jordi Roca: Spanish pastry making is actually closely linked to Spanish cuisine, where the starting points are based on creativity and the avant garde. Pastry making still continues to evolve to a great extent, and at the same time, shares several similar connections to French pastry making and has plenty of potential to evolve further and create a dynamic impact in terms of dessert offering.

G.A: How would you describe your desserts, so people can visualize and almost taste your creations?

J.R: My desserts are usually quite aromatic and are accentuated with familiar flavours that often remind diners of a beautiful landscape or a holiday they enjoyed. I think my desserts are also visually pleasing and provides a harmony of flavours, like one of the desserts at the recent The Macallan Masters of Taste Singapore, a unique whisky pairing dinner presented by El Celler de Can Roca and Bacchanalia in conjunction with the 19^th edition of World Gourmet Summit

There, we presented a Chocolate anarchy with plum, pu ehr, coco, toffee, bergamote, sandalwood, pepper, dates and figs.

We chose to work with chocolate and several other interesting ingredients, as chocolate is great to explore, and an ideal flavour to enhance The Macallan Estate Reserve as well, which is a rich and fruity whisky with intense oak wood and spiced orange notes.

Hence, we sought a special approach towards the chocolate to highlight its nuances and textures such that it combines the tastes and aromatic parameters of the distinctive whisky by The Macallan. We are proud of this molecular correspondence, which is a harmony of aroma and flavour. This is a dish that we serve at El Celler de Can Roca, but one that we adapted for this occasion to highlight the complexity of a unique whisky, The Macallan Estate Reserve.

G.A: You are often described as a rule breaker, pushing the boundaries, though basics remain important to you. How do you find the right balance? Do you have any limits when it comes to the creative process?

J.R: The balance comes from the training I’ve received from my family. Having 2 generations of restaurateurs in my family, the rich traditions and roots from them have kept me grounded. Although we have a rich past, as we now live in contemporary times, we have to push ourselves further to stay relevant and ahead of our times. However, I still adhere to certain rules that were passed down from my family.

G.A: After working with perfumes, developing La Gelateria Rocambolesc, what is your next inspiration/ project?

J.R: Having worked with perfumes at La Gelateria Rocambolesc, we are now exploring the aromatic profiles of alcohol, particularly whisky. As part of our global collaboration with The Macallan, we presented an exclusive dinner paired with whisky in Spain for The Macallan Masters of Taste. This year, as part of the 19^th edition of World Gourmet Summit, we collaborated with The Macallan and award-winning Bacchanalia for The Macallan Masters of Taste Singapore, a unique whisky pairing dinner presented by El Celler de Can Roca and Bacchanalia.

We believe that marrying food and whisky brings together the supreme craft, beauty and innovation of creating the ultimate taste experience. Both require the same quality and attention to detail to create.

As part of the cooking philosophy, before creating any dishes with whisky, we have to savour the whisky and identify the key tasting notes and flavours so we can see which ingredients match and pair the best, and also the layers of colours involved in the ingredients.

Sometimes we try to pair, and some other times, we’ll search for contrast so the result will be smooth and delicate, allowing the whisky to speak. This is also why we are always excited to present a dinner in collaboration with The Macallan, as they have a selection of rich whiskeys with intense flavours.

G.A: In Asia as it is in Spain, family ties matter. How is it like working with your brothers? And how would you describe and upkeep this working relationship?

J.R: It’s truly wonderful. We all feel blessed to be able to work together as a family. Of course, we do have our differences but we always have open discussions and find a way to come to a compromise, an art that our mother taught us. At the end of the day, we do realise that we all have different strengths so we work together to bring out the best in each other: Joan is the leading chef, Josep the maître and wine master, and I’m the one that closes a perfect triangle for us, with the desserts that I create. I do believe that we are a perfect fit – like three peas in a pod.

G.A: In this part of the world, what would you say to encourage the youngsters to become pastry chefs? Do you have any advice for aspiring pastry chefs?

J.R: I would tell them that they are lucky to be part of a region, which has an incredible wealth of resources and opportunities. The rich culture and tradition is also something that pastry chefs can explore and tap on, in creating their desserts. In a market where people enjoy their food and are exposed to various cuisines, it really is a playground for pastry chefs to explore and create innovative desserts.

G.A: Have you tried any local fruits or pastries? Any preferences and why?

J.R: I’ve had the chance to try the desserts by Janice Wong, from Singapore, who’s also named as Asia’s Best Pastry Chef in 2014. The chocolates and motchies infused with Asian flavours were fantastic. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

G.A: What aspects would you like Singaporeans to associate with the Roca’s brothers?

J.R: We want our flavours to connect with them, linking them to good memories of their land, roots, and traditions, making them feel like home.

Céline Manoukian

Photo credit: WGS